Organic Soaps? No Such Thing

Published on November 21st, 2014 - Updated August 5, 2016 2 Comments
Organic Soaps? No Such Thing

©By Valenti Organics

Organic is a word controlled by the USDA National Organic Program (NOP), the government organization that sets the standards for Certified Organic production in the US, – and the same organization some of our products are were Certified Organic under by one of their certifying agents. As much as many of us don’t like the “control” there is on this little word by the government, the fact of the matter is, it exists, and as manufacturers we must abide by the law.

The use of the word Organic in products that have not yet achieved certification isn’t permitted at all in the front label of any product, but can be used in the ingredients list when indeed the ingredients are certified organic. Those that have used the word Organic or 100% Organic in the front label of their products without achieving certification have faced really steep fines. However there are some exceptions according to USDA NOP which many ignore “Operations whose gross agricultural income from organic sales is less than $5,000 (per year) do not need to be certified in order to sell, label, or represent their products as organic. These operations also do not need to prepare an organic systems plan. However, they must still comply with all other USDA organic regulations. Exempt operations may use the word “organic,” but may not use the USDA organic seal on their products. Retail food establishments that sell organically produced agricultural products do not need to be certified.”

The USDA NOP Organic Standards are very specific when it comes to classifying a food or a product as Organic. The process to achieve certification, as you might guess, is as annoying, bureaucratic and cumbersome as they come.

According to USDA NOP regulations, a product can be:
1) “100% Organic” if and only if 100% of its ingredients are certified organic.
2) “Organic” (without the mention of percentage) if and only if at least 95% of its ingredients are certified organic and the remaining 5% are from the USDA NOP Authorized List of Ingredients, – which is where some of our products are were categorized in.
3) “Made with Organic Ingredients” if and only if at least 70% of its ingredients are certified organic and the remaining 30% are from the USDA NOP Authorized List of Ingredients.

A simple equation is used to calculate the percentage of certified organic ingredients versus non-organic ingredients. Water and salt aren’t counted at all as per USDA’s guidelines. Those are the only two ingredients not counted at all in calculating organic percentages for the standards. Solving the equation will give a manufacturer of any product the right amount in percentage form of organic ingredients which determines the label the product will be classified with, whether this is 100% Organic, Organic (95%+) or Made with Organic Ingredients (70% +). (1)

In the particular case of soaps, both liquids and bars, these are manufactured with lye (sodium hydroxide for solid bars and potassium hydroxide for liquid soaps). To make soap at least 10% of lye is required to be used in the total formulation to completely saponify all the oils and butters leaving at least no residual unreacted lye. If we apply the equation provided by the USDA NOP, and because we must count lye as one non-organic yet accepted ingredient, the count of organic ingredients goes down to 90%, never more than that, but most of the time much less than that. So even if all the rest of the ingredients in a particular formula for soap are certified organic, the actual final product won’t ever have the minimum required percentage (95%) of organic ingredients to qualify it as Organic, by USDA NOP regulations.

Yet some brands are claiming their soaps as Certified Organic even claiming their soaps contain 97.7% of organic ingredients, as I just found out from a competitor, to lure consumers into believing their products are even better than those made by the rest of us simpleton who like to play by the rules.

I’m a visual & mathematical person, and you probably like me, understand better by seeing than reading, so let’s look at a very basic formula for Coconut soap so you can understand better.

To make this soap we need only 3 basic ingredients: water, lye and certified organic coconut oil. So inputting the data into one of the most popular online soap calculators, SoapCalc, we get the proportions we need for every ingredient to make this very basic – not good for the skin – soap.

The calculator has some standard data already in it for the amateur soapmaker to be able to make a descent soap. It considers a 5% lye discount, which basically means it discounts 5% of the total lye required to saponify all the oils, as to leave a small percentage of free-floating oils in the formula in case measurements weren’t too accurate as it happens with the imperial system (lb and oz) over the metric system (kg, g and mg), and to render a soap extra moisturizing. So for 1 lb of oil we get the following proportions for the ingredients we need (see below).

There is no such thing as Certified Organic Soap

Soap calculation with 100% organic coconut oil and 25% lye discount

So in this basic soap formula we can see to saponify 1 lb (453.59 g) of organic coconut oil it’s required 2.79 oz (78.96 g) of lye. The lye already contains a 5% discount and this is important for the next example below. The calculator tells us we also need 6.08 oz (172.36 g) of water. The total weight of the soap would be 1.554 lb or 24.87 oz or 704.92 g.

The USDA formula to calculate the organic % in a product is (2):

Total Net Weight of All Certified Organic Ingredient (in grams) excluding salt & water
__________________________________________________________________________________________ x 100
Total Net Weight of Product (in grams) including salt & water

The percentage obtained must be rounded down to the nearest whole number, according to USDA guidelines.

Applying the formula with the proportions from the soap calculator we get:

532.56
______ x 100 = 75.54% rounded down 75%

704.92

Even though in this example certified organic coconut oil is the main ingredient for the soap, it didn’t even reach 90% organic. This formula for a soap can only meet the Made with Organic Ingredients USDA Standard.

But let’s play with the calculator and bump up the lye discount to 25%, which could result in a incredibly soft soap that would spoil or go rancid very quickly, to see where are these brands getting their percentages from.

There is no such thing as certified organic soap

Soap calculation with 100% organic coconut oil and 25% lye discount

With these calculations we apply the USDA formula and we get:

515.94
______ x 100 = 74.95% rounded down as per USDA instructions 74%
688.30

Let’s play a bit more and this time input a 0% lye discount to see what happens.

There is no such thing as Certified Organic Soap

Soap calculation with 100% organic coconut oil and 0% lye discount

Applying the formula we get:

536.72
______ x 100 = 75.69% rounded down 75%
709.08

No matter what we do or what calculator we used (even our own proprietary calculator), how many variables we input, to try and get a higher percentage for organic count, the highest we were able to achieve was close to 90%.

Many soapmakers and cosmetic companies have sent their proposals over the USDA NOP, with various – nonetheless valid – arguments to change the equation to calculate the percentage of organic ingredients specifically for soaps, so these products can qualify for the Organic and 100% Organic certifications. The argument is, the percentage of lye required to saponify all the oils and butters to transform them into soap is converted to glycerin, leaving no active lye behind. We at By Valenti Organics agree with this, unfortunately no decision has yet being made on this matter.

Because we must abide by the rules, and even if soaps are being certified by any of the authorized certifying agents for the USDA NOP, due to current regulations, soaps cannot ever be classified as 100% Organic, or Organic but as Made with Organic Ingredients at best.

Any brand or cosmetic manufacturer claiming their soaps contain 95% of organic ingredients or more, is just blatantly misleading consumers while breaking USDA NOP regulations.

Consumers should know how we manufacture the products they use, not only that they smell good, feel good, or diminish the signs of aging or breakouts. We consumers have the right to know and as manufacturers we should provide truthful information, not gimmicks and fake facts with the only scope to sell more products.

Truth in labeling must be a priority for any brand, big or small.



Manuela Valenti is a Psychopedagogist, Professional International Artist, Fashion Model, soon to be Chemist, wife and mother of 3. She is the CEO and founder of By Valenti Organics, Manuela Valenti Studio & Gallery and other companies.


http://www.byvalenti.com


Friday, November 21st, 2014  |   permalink  |   2 Comments  |  
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2 Comments... add yours

  • Elizabeth Mary says:

    Im fairly new at soap making, still learning the trade. I’ve done a few workshops and I’m learning how to calculate the proportions of ingredients in a soap, using a number of formulas so I find this very interesting and clear to understand.

    But now am curious, what about liquid soaps? Can they be certified organic? I’m not a fan of Dr Bronner. Actually I hate all their products, but I saw they claim they manufacture certified organic liquid soap. I’ve played with the bunch of calculators online and the ones I have on a spread sheet and I haven’t been able to get the percentage for either of the organic standards. Is Dr. Bronner deceiving consumers as well in your experience?

    Thanks.

    • Hi Elizabeth Mary. Do they really manufacture certified organic liquid soaps?… Fascinatingly enough, when we applied for the organic certification for my products, one of the products I badly wanted to get certified was our Facial Foaming Cleanser, but we couldn’t certify it as it didn’t even meet (not even close enough) the 95% organic standard. I fail to understand how Dr Bronner has managed this, for many of us simpletons, impossible task.

      In any case large companies like the referred one, don’t use the methods most small soapmakers use, which are the Cold Process or Semi-boiled process, for which you will find lots of info online. Medium to large size soapmaking companies use the Full boiled process or the Continuous process. Due to the large volume of products they make and sell, I’m inclined to think they might be actually using the Continuous process to make their soaps, but I could be wrong. The proportions of lye/water/fats wouldn’t change with either of these methods, if anything with these last two the proportions of lye over fats is a bit higher over the cold or semi-boiled processes as you can see in this page http://www.nzdl.org/gsdlmod?e=d-00000-00—off-0cdl–00-0—-0-10-0—0—0direct-10—4——-0-1l–11-en-50—20-about—00-0-1-00-0–4—-0-0-11-10-0utfZz-8-00&cl=CL1.203&d=HASH015bbb10c6f5cb2249d93782.14&gt=1

      No matter the combination of organic ingredients, you would always get the same results when calculating the organic percentages even when all the ingredients are of organic nature and even if no water is involved in the process. Remember that for calculating organic percentages as per USDA regulations, water and salts are not taken into account. I truly fail to see how they’ve managed to achieve organic certification for a product that without a doubt as with current USDA NOP regulations, cannot meet beyond “Made with Certified Organic Ingredients” regardless of process, unless I’m missing something.

      If it was possible to legally and truthfully achieve a liquid or solid certified organic soap, wouldn’t we have loads of certified organic laundry soaps by now?

      It’s a curiosity that’s for sure.

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