Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol, predominantly found in the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, also known as the "babchi" plant. It is celebrated in the cosmetic industry for its remarkable similarities to retinol, particularly its ability to promote anti-aging without the typical irritative effects associated with retinoids. Bakuchiol has gained attention for its stability in formulations, even under exposure to sunlight and oxygen, making it a versatile ingredient for a wide range of cosmetic products.

The extraction of bakuchiol involves a process that ensures the integrity and purity of the compound, enhancing its efficacy and safety in skincare applications. Its incorporation into cosmetic products is backed by research demonstrating its capabilities in reducing the appearance of fine lines, promoting even skin tone, and improving skin elasticity.

The molecular structure of bakuchiol allows it to perform these functions by signaling pathways akin to those affected by retinol, thus validating its role as a plant-based retinol alternative.

It should be noted that the Psoralea corylifolia extract (water based) and the babchi oil (for cooking purposes) are not only not the same ingredient, and do not replace Bakuchiol, but neither contain enough or any at all of the bakuchiol molecule to provide any benefits. To the contrary, both these ingredients are harmful to the skin in the presence of UV light due to their high levels of Psoralens, a chemical compound known to irritate the skin, causing blisters, and increasing the risk of developing skin cancer.

The unique aspect of bakuchiol is that, despite being a natural compound, its quality and efficacy in cosmetic applications are maintained at high standards primarily by Sytheon, which is currently the only known producer of high-quality, and high-purity natural bakuchiol. Their process ensures a pure, consistent, and effective product that leverages the benefits of this natural ingredient without the drawbacks found in less rigorously produced imitators.

Bakuchiol

Common Name

Bakuchiol

INCI

Bakuchiol

Extraction or Production Process

Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. Sytheon uses an extraction process that ensures high purity and conservation of the bioactive properties of bakuchiol, distinguishing their product from lower-quality versions.

Sources

Bakuchiol is sourced from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, a mainstay in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. This plant-based source categorizes bakuchiol as a natural ingredient.

Country of Origin

Sytheon, as a leading producer of high-quality natural bakuchiol in the US, France and Asia, sourcing its Psoralea corylifolia primarily from India, where the plant is native and cultivated under conditions that support sustainable agriculture.

Function

Bakuchiol serves as an antioxidant, anti-aging agent, and anti-inflammatory in cosmetic products. It is particularly effective in stimulating collagen production, thereby improving skin elasticity and reducing signs of aging.

Properties

As a natural compound, bakuchiol is stable, effective, and suitable for inclusion in various cosmetic formulations. Amber-gold in color, and completely hydrophobic (water repellent) Bakuchiol it is soluble in most organic solvents and oils, which facilitates its use in a broad range of product types. 

Benefits

The benefits of bakuchiol include its ability to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, and enhance skin firmness. Its antioxidant capacity also helps protect skin from oxidative stress, while its anti-inflammatory properties can soothe and calm irritated skin.

    Contraindications and Precautions

    While bakuchiol is generally well-tolerated, users should always conduct a patch test before incorporating it into their skincare routine, particularly those with sensitive skin. As with many active ingredients, consultation with a healthcare provider is recommended for pregnant and breastfeeding women.

    The Fake Bakuchiols and Their Harmful Side Effects

    Bakuchiol is not a plant extract, a cold pressed oil and it is not a water-based purple solution. Bakuchiol is a hydrophobic (water repellent oil-like substance) amber to golden in color oil soluble ingredient, obtained through monomolecular extraction from the Babchi seeds — mono = one, meaning that only one molecule, the bakuchiol molecule, is obtained.

    Several products on the market exist misleadingly claiming to be featuring Bakuchiol as their active ingredient, however disclosing it as bakuchiol extract or similar in the list of ingredients. These fake bakuchiol ingredients however because of the lack of purification and refinement contain high levels of Psoralens and no bakuchiol at all.

    Psoralea corylifolia, the Babchi or Bakuchi plant from where the Bakuchiol is extracted from, contains high levels of Psoralens, undesirable chemical compounds known as furocoumarins left behind during the extraction process of various plant extracts, seed extracts and oils.

    Psoralens are used in dermatology as a drug part of a therapy called PUVA, an acronym for Psoralen + UVA (Ultra Violet Light) to treat severe skin disorders such as psoriasis. The patient after taking the drug PUVA orally or applied topically, is then exposed to UVA light.

    Unfortunately Psoralens cause the skin to be more sunlight-reactive, which pose many risks, including developing skin cancer and liver toxicity when taken orally among other negative side effects.

    Psoralens are used in many tanning lotions particularly in the U.S. to enhance skin darkening during tanning sessions.

    Bakuchiol, the real one that is, because of the way it's extracted from the seeds of the plant and because of its purification process, does not contain any Psoralen compounds. Unfortunately that cannot be said from the purple water-based extracts and the cold-pressed cooking oil many brands use to sell products under the umbrella of the original Bakuchiol ingredient.

    Image source courtesy of: bakuchiol.net

     

     

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